History
Žužemberk, my town
(Vlado Kostevc)
Sandy ground above green river,
On its top a castle stays,
History spread all over,
Growth, Bloom, and Decay.
These lines were written by Tone Pavček in the poem Žužemberk,
which was published in the second Suha krajina poetry miscellany in
2000.
Žužemberk is situated on both banks of the river Krka, along the
intersection of roads Ivančna Gorica - Črnomelj and Novo mesto, and
Trebnje-Dvor-Kočevje. It is the capital of Suha Krajina, stretching
from Muljava till St. Peter, Brezova Reber and Dobrnič.
The settlement, from which a medieval market town Žužemberk
evolved, had its history, for this region had been inhabited by the
Illyrians and Celts, while the Romans had built an important road
through it. The present day settlement has developed around the
castle, from which the name Žužemberk originates. Since in the
nearby courtyard, called Einsenberg (today's Zafara), iron ore had
been excavated, the castle was given the name Seinsenberg, which
the local people changed into Žužemberk. This is only the first of
three derivatives of this name. It is said that the name of the
castle and the town originates from Old German word "sousen", which
means to rustle or to roar, after the rustling sounds the river
Krka makes when running down the natural tufa waterfalls under the
castle. It is also said that the name of the castle and the town
derives from the Slovenian name Zožen breg (narrowed bank), which
was changed into Seinsenberg and then back to Žužemberk.
When talking about Žužemberk, one cannot overlook the beauty of
the Dolenjska region, the river Krka, which forms one of the most
picturesque tufa waterfalls or barriers right under the castle. It
used to be full of well known Krka crabs, which were regarded as
one of the most delicious dishes on the imperial court in Vienna.
Unfortunately, crabs were killed by plague at the end of the 19th
century, and all further attempts to resettle them were
unsuccessful. Today barbells, bleaks, roaches and trouts swim in
the river, and even a kind of Danube salmon is discerned every now
and then, however, there are not so many fish as there used to be,
when people were catching them with baskets.
It is difficult to say when the castle was built. The year 1000
is sometimes mentioned, since was engraved above the entrance into
the rectangular Romanic tower, along which the castle chapel of St.
Ulrich was built in 1046. Several buildings were added to the
castle many times in its history, however, the main annex to the
castle was enabled by the so called Turk tax, by means of which the
prince bishop Krištof Raubar fortified the castle with seven
defence towers or bastilles between the years 1526 and 1533. The
castle became an unconquerable fortress. Jurij and Wolf Engelbet of
Turjak, who were only tenants in the beginning, bought the castle
in 1538. Many legends and known names are connected with the
castle. Let us mention at least two.
In the year 1559, on the the Candlemas and fair day, the castle
was conquered by Gregor, an illegitimate son of Jurij Turjaški with
eighteen soldiers. However, the conquest did not last long, since
Herbart Turjaški, the general of Croation region of the time, was
nearby, and defeated the attackers. They ended miserably, they were
slaughtered and thrown over the walls in the forest, where wild
beasts devoured them In memory of this event the Cistercian monk
Janez Faitan wrote a ong poem Seisenbergensis Tumultus, Rumble in
Žužemberk. Only a few lines are preserved and translated.
In the midst of Iliria, a town raises above the deep
valley,
A strong fortress, resisting and defying each weapon,
A settlement tamed by Turjak family for years and years,
se name has been distinguished in many battles,
An old name that derives from tur or bison bonasus.
The river Krka rages through this town,
Roaring among the rocks,
And gives the name to the town and the castle
With its wild and rustling noise,
While licking the fortress walls.
The second legend is sad, too. In December 1575, a tame bear
killed the countess Ana von Eck from Brdo, the wife of Ivan
Turjaški. In memory of this sad event a lime tree was planted in
the garden. Unfortunately, the several hundred years old lime only
grew till 1999, when it had to be cut.
According to the memoirs of the priest Alojz Zupanc, an
incredible registrar of the history of this region, several
military commanders, governors of province and also the first
minister in the Habsburg monarchy were born in this castle.
In 1557 Andrej Auersperg Šumberski, the son of Wolf Engelbert,
who finished his studies in Padova, was born here. He distinguished
himself in the battle against Turks by Sisak in the year 1593, in
which the Turks were completely defeated. After the battle a
decoration was conferred on Andrej by the Pope and the Emperor, and
so he became the Achilles of Carniola. Unfortunately he died next
year, so that by right of succession the Turjak Auerspergs
inherited the castle from the Ažumberg branch of Turjak family.
On the anniversary of the battle, in 1610, Wolf Engelbert, the
son of Dietrich Turjaški was born, and later became the governor of
Carniola province. He was a good friend of Janez Vajkard
Valvasor.
In 1615, Janez Vajkard Auersperg, who attained to the highest
position of all inhabitants of Žužemberk, was born. He was the
tutor of the emperor Ferdinand III., got the title of a prince,
earned a huge fortune, and later became even the first minister in
the Habsburg monarchy. Because of his desire to become a cardinal
he was removed from his post in 1669, and returned to Žužemberk,
where he died in 1677. His great-grandson, Jožef Franc Anton, the
duke of Auersperg, became a cardinal in 1783, and so the dreams of
his great-grandfather, Janez Vajkard became true. So much about
interesting legends and important husbands and wives.
It is not known when exactly Žužemberk obtained the market town
rights, but most probably in the 14th century, since in the 1399
exchange contract for the parishes Dobrnič and Tržič Žužemberk was
already mentioned as a market town. For the establishment of the
market town it was important that it stood on the intersection of
roads, while a firm castle offered the necessary protection and
safety to its inhabitants. The market town had the right to
organise fairs, and have its elected self-government and judicial
administration. Its inhabitants were mainly craftsmen or
peasants.
In Žužemberk and its neighbourhood Christianity had developed
from the older parish in Dobrnič. There were as many as five
churches in Žužemberk and its close surroundings, among which the
most prominent was the church of St. Hermagor and St. Fortunat,
which was completed in 1769. It was burnt down during World War II,
and renewed after Slovenia had become independent. Today the oldest
church in Žužemberk is the church of St. Nicholas from the 13th
century. It is decorated with renowned frescos of Adam and Eve, and
the Sea Storm. The church of St. Rochus was built in 1626 with the
help of all Krka valley in grateful thanks for the aversion of
evil, caused by the plague, which had been murdering all over
Dolenjska region. Even today the area behind the church is called
Kužni dol (the Plague valley), since there were so many dead, that
they had to be buried on the parish field. There were two churches
in Žužemberk, St. Leonard on Cvibelj, and one on St. Joseph square.
Unfortunatelly, the first one was demolished during the war, and
the second one after the war.
There was also a guild of tanners in Žužemberk, which was given
consent by the empress Maria Theresa in 1775. Its seventeen members
were making soles and leather, which were used for trousers,
aprons, wine-skins and wheat sacks. In the church of St. Joseph on
the main square in Žužemberk the tanner guild had its own
altar.
Žužemberk also had its own powder magazine. However the making
of powder stopped in Žužemberk, when the state powder magazine in
Kamnik was established.
Žužemberk with its rich small trade tradition and paper mill,
which was one of the oldest in Slovenia, and was later changed into
tannery, ironworks in Zagradec, and especially iron foundry in
Dvor, presented vivacious economic activity in Upper Krka Valley.
There were many mills and sawmills Along the tufa banks of the
river Krka. There were quite a few mills in Žužemberk and its
surroundings, namely the Zajec mill, the Vehovec mill, the Rojc
mill and the Gričar mill. Among the most characteristic products of
the castle iron foundry, decorating Žužemberk even today, are
undoubtedly the cast iron fountain in the square and the graveyard
cross from 1867, while many other grave crosses and tombstones are
preserved as well.
The development of the town and Suha Krajina was undoubtedly
connected with the castle and Auersperg family. The castle edifice
with a mighty vine cellar was inhabited till 1893, when the
district court moved to a nice new building, but even before that
the prince moved to the Soteska castle. Then the castle began to
decay.
Ironworks industry also reached its peak in the 19th century,
and then decayed. When the valley did not get the railway, which
had been planned, the settlements along Krka were destined to pine
away slowly.
Between the wars the candle and gingerbread trade flourished in
Žužemberk, because of which the town was famous all over Dolenjska
region. Wax candles were made without machines. Several millers,
joiners, blacksmiths, bakers, innkeepers and merchants also resided
here. Cultural and sport life was also very developed.
During World War II the castle was changed in Italian and later
in home guard post. The castle was attacked several times, and it
received the most destructive blow in February 1945, when the
allies bombarded Žužemberk.
After the war the renovation of the castle began, especially
owing to the conservator Ivan Komelj, Špela Valentinčič, and Milan
Senica, the secretary of the local community at the time, however,
it proceeded very slowly. In 1996 the Committee for the Renovation
of the Žužemberk Castle was founded, which tried to bring the
castle back to life and impart its former significance to it.
After World War II, which caused a lot of suffering to this
region, Žužemberk became the seat of municipality until 1961, when
the bigger part of the municipality joined the Novo mesto
municipality.
In the same year when the municipality was abolished, the great
inauguration of the monument in memory of the deceased partisan
combatants took place in Cvibelj. The monument is a work of the
architect Marjan Tepina. In the tombstone the mortal remains of
1440 war victims in Suha Krajina and Žužemberk are preserved, among
which are also the remains of soldiers from Italy, Austria,
Hungary, Croatia, Russia, Lithuania, Srbia, Azerbaijan, and Monte
Negro. The monument is of international importance, and each year a
number of foreign diplomats attends the commemoration.
For many years Žužemberk was known for its rich cultural, sport
and social life. The inhabitants of Žužemberk could enjoy in a
number of theatre performances of local actors, and went to the
movie theatre, the youth had its own place to meet at the concerts,
while the volleyball and basketball players were active in the
sports field, which all contributed to the specific atmosphere of
the town. However, this rich cultural life slowly began to decay at
the end of 1970s. At the end of 1980s and in the beginning of 1990s
Žužemberk reached its lowest point in the economic and social life.
A decay of a thousand years old castle seemed unstoppable, and on
the hill above the town only a pile of ruins reminded people of a
once mighty parish church.
Activities behind the mighty castle walls helped to gain some
financial sources from the state institutions, and with the help of
restorers, stone after stone slowly began to return to its place
next to the overgrown castle walls, severely injured by rain and
time. The mighty giant on the rock next to Krka stood up again, as
if he had wanted to show his former strength and importance, which
could be brought back only by people who respected his grandeur and
importance, which he conferred upon the town. With the construction
of a new school with a gym new hope arose in Žužemberk. The school,
which had been one of the centres of different activities in the
town for years, suddenly faced new possibilities with the new
building. The inhabitants of Suha krajina were proud to be the last
who had the opportunity to welcome their compatriot Leon Štukelj,
who solemnly opened the new extension to the school. Not many
people know that the mother of Leon Štukelj was from Zafara, a
village in the vicinity of Žužemberk. In the summer months the
sport activities transfer to the recreation grounds on the bank of
the river Krka, to Loka under the mighty castle, where the
volleyball players voluntarily arranged two wonderful sand
volleyball playgrounds, on which each August the biggest volleyball
event in Slovenia is organised, the open championship of Dolenjska
in sand volleyball. More than 70 teams from all over Slovenia
participate in this event. The three day sports gathering with more
than 2000 visitors usually ends with the pop concert evening. But
not only the tourist association, volleyball players and school
contribute to the atmosphere of Žužemberk. There is no doubt that
the only ones who have been active and present throughout all the
years were the members of the Voluntary Firebrigade Association of
Žužemberk, which was established long ago in 1888. To be a fireman
is an honourable and esteemed occupation also in our region, since
unselfish help to neighbours in need is still present in the
countryside, and firemen are definitely the right address,
especially when, owing to drought, water becomes the most precious
and desired product in our region. This part of Slovenia was also
known for self-sown vine, samorodnica, the vine, that replaced the
vaccinated vine, that had been destroyed by the wine louse more
than a century ago. It is not like that anymore, since the lovers
of good wine are again delighted by a good sort wine, growing on
the hills around Žužemberk, especially the zemljing and kerner
wine, the quality of which is diligently controlled by the Suha
krajina association of winegrowers, which assures the expertise of
production and organises the evaluation of wine each year. However,
the visually most attractive event, which makes the visitors sigh,
is organised each year by The Association of Farmers' Wives Suha
krajina - Žužemberk. Together with winegrowers the wives prepare
the exhibition and tasting of wine, homemade pastry and bread,
handicrafts and cottage industry products.
Slowly, old traditions are returning to town, one of them being
"kračevanje", the ham feast. On the day of St. Anthony in January,
the local farmers bring their homemade dry meat products, which had
been smoked beforehand and had obtained delicious scent, to auction
sale. The participants sell their meat products, e. g. sausages,
salami or ham by auction, and their new owner becomes the person
who offers the highest price. In 1998 the Žužemberk municipality
was founded, which brought new expectations, and revived the hope
that Žužemberk with its surroundings would again get the same
important position in Slovenia as it used to had. Only a few people
know that before more than one-hundred-and-fifty years ago Suha
krajina with Žužemberk was one of the most developed regions in
Slovenia, and that there were more than 2000 workers in the upper
stream of the river Krka. In the beginning of this century,
Žužemberk was an important economic centre with highly developed
trade, which was then destroyed in World War I and World War II.
Slowly the former self-esteem and pride is returning in the minds
of the inhabitants of Žužemberk, however, many things still have to
be done with our joined forces for the future of this wonderful
town, with which we are so deeply connected, and where we keep
returning with pleasant memories of all its people
Žužemberk has definitely experienced a revival in the last
years, and the celebrations at the 660th anniversary of the first
mention of the market town and the 1000th anniversary of the
Žužemberk castle, have brought back some medieval atmosphere into
town, while knight tournaments with a medieval fair have become a
tourist attraction for visitors all over Slovenia. At the same time
the members of the tourist and horse breading association have
established a knightly order, commanded by the Žužemberk mayor
Franc Škufca in the role of Wolf Engelbert of Turjak, and the
president of the tourist association Vlado Kostevc in the role of
Jurij Turjaški, the governor of the Žužemberk castle.
This is Žužemberk, Suha krajina, where time runs at a different
speed. The river Krka invites you with its valley of castles, its
peace and untarnished nature, cultural sights, and a number of
opportunities to spend your free time actively. Visit us and
experience Žužemberk for yourselves.
At the end, listen to Jakčev Janez, the local tourist guide and
an incredible connoisseur of the history of this region.
Žužemberk, oh Žužemberk,
A wonderful town,
Crowned with wreaths of the river Krka,
Long fields,hills planted with vines,
Surrounded by forests,
And cherished by many for eternal times.
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